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Obedience Training: Teaching your dog the perfect recall.

12/29/2012

42 Comments

 
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We have all seen them; the owners that chase their dogs around relentlessly, begging their fleeing pet to "come" and "sit" and "stay" while the animal play bows and dodges them effortlessly. The frustration we see on their faces and mirror on our own reflect the problem that is prevalent in our modern world; Many dogs have no recall training.

If there is one command you and your dog should perfect, it is the recall. There is no other command more useful and potentially life saving than the revered "come" or "here". This type of training is incredibly important for every single dog on planet earth and I cannot stress that enough. Accidents happen every day and you want to be confident that you will have control over your dog in every situation.

One moment you could be walking your dog quietly down the street and the next you could find your dog slipping its collar and in pursuit of a rabbit towards busy traffic. A loud, firm "HERE!" could save your dog's life if he or she is properly trained.

Hiking is an activity every dog should enjoy, it feeds both body and soul and provides the best kind of exercise you and your dog can experience together. Hiking off leash is a privilege that has limitless benefits for a dog but it can only be truly enjoyed by dogs with perfect (or near perfect) recall. While you are hiking, every time you see a person in the distance, you should call your dog to you and leash them up until you are alone again. You should especially do this when you see another dog to keep your own pet safe and prevent fights or negative contact with strange animals. You should also never allow your dog to approach other people or dogs off leash, under any circumstances, unless you know the person and have given one another permission to allow each dog to interact.

The recall is so important and is useful in every situation that involves your dog. There is no excuse not to train this command and the consequences of not training this can be extremely frustrating and often dangerous. It is easier than most people think, as it just requires consistency and effort. There is no need to hire an expensive dog trainer to help you perfect it, it just takes knowledge and effort.

The first step to a perfect recall is an exercise called the "restrained recall". This exercise takes two people, with a secondary handler holding the dog by its leash. The leash should be very long so the secondary handler can follow after the dog and grab its leash if necessary.

The purpose of the restrained recall is to hold the dog back while the handler excites the dog and runs in the opposite direction. A toy may be used if the dog is especially toy motivated. The primary handler will walk or jog away, calling the dog’s name and using their “here” or “come” command in a happy, excitable voice while playing with the toy and doing absolutely everything they can to encourage the dog. The dog should be barking, going wild and trying to run after the primary handler. Once the dog is worked up and trying to chase the owner, the secondary handler should release the dog and follow after for safety purposes. The primary handler should call the dog again, give the recall command, and praise and reward with play once the dog reaches them. Repeating this exercise gets the dog excited and enthusiastic about the recall and teaches him or her that great things happen when they go to their owner.

Once the dog learns the first step and the handler feels confident about the dog coming when called, the second step is to teach the dog to sit and stay. Once the dog is able to sit and stay, the handler will walk away from the dog. Once at a good distance the handler will call the dog and give the chosen recall command. At this point, they should continue to be extremely exciting to entice the dog to come to them. As soon as the dog reaches them, they should offer lots of play and praise. The dog continues to learn that whenever the dog responds to the command by running to the owner, it is rewarded with lots of fun and positive things. Owners should include food rewards for the dogs that are food motivated.

An important note to remember is that an owner should never discipline a dog for coming to them, even if the dog has ignored their commands previously and generated frustration in the handler. Disciplining the dog is counter productive. When the dog finally comes to you, you have the perfect opportunity to reinforce the fact that if the dog comes when called, it will be rewarded. The reward you offer should be greater than whatever "fun" and "exciting" thing kept them from coming to you in the first place.

Training the recall is a lifelong commitment. Once the foundation is set, owners should strive to practice it whenever they can and further cement that obedience. They will find themselves with a well behaved dog that is under their control when out in public. Ultimately, time outdoors with your dog becomes stress free and enjoyable.

Angel
K9 Instinct
www.k9instinct.com
42 Comments
Crystal
1/24/2013 05:42:19 am

There is very little that is as painful to watch as a dog that has slipped his lead and is dashing around, avoiding not only his owner but everyone else as he endangers his life near a road. Teach the recall!

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pam duncan
2/15/2013 01:11:36 am

I would like to teach perfect recall but how can I do this alone? She knows basic and does pretty good with them.

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Debbie Woodward
11/30/2013 05:52:27 am

you can practice in the house. Just randomly call the dog with same excitement. I have done it alone with a lone with a long training lead. You can hold the lead and as soon as he is almost out of lead call them back the same way as described above. You want to have a lead long enough that there is always slack so they feel it is there decision do not pull on the lead or have any tension. Then you can practice the other way when you have a friend to build more distance.

K9 Instinct
2/15/2013 01:13:52 am

You just need a friend or family member to double handle for you or hold the leash while you train the recall. :)

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Gilbert
4/13/2014 02:46:48 pm

I have a Boxer Golden retriver mix he is just over a year old and very high strung.When walking him on a leash he wont heal and pulls me around what can I do to fix this.

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Alexis link
2/15/2013 01:23:03 am

How would you do this with two large dogs? And a 10 year old boy?

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Arie
3/8/2013 05:42:23 am

These methods don't work for every dog. I have a high prey drive coon hound with HUGE hunt drive that just shuts off her brain if she is loose. On the lead she is a star and listens really well. Off lead all she wants to do it hunt.

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Scott Bratcher link
4/17/2013 08:03:08 am

Have you tried a long (20' or so) paracord lead? Something that will seem 'off-lead' but leave you able to correct? I agree that DNA is a strong thing and breeds are different. At the same time, I'd love to think that each breed comes with it's own tendencies, rather than some breeds being unteachable in certain areas.

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Scott Bratcher link
4/18/2013 12:31:02 am

I'm revisiting this because I just re-read my answer and thought of something. Are you using the dog to hunt? We put that DNA there and you don't want to try to train that away. These dogs are bred as tools of man and to tell an A/C unit to blow heat because "now that's what I want" is unrealistic and unfair to the tool. If you use the dog to hunt, work a flow of training a r o u n d the hunting. The hunting is the master skill that should be unadulterated. You can come at this from either angle. It depends on your expectations of the dog.

Jessie
3/8/2013 07:21:00 am

What would you do with an 8 yr.

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Scott Bratcher link
4/17/2013 07:57:56 am

Teach them like a 1.5 year old. Can't teach a dog new tricks is wrong. It's not the dog that's old. It's your relationship that's established. Prepare to uproot some comforts and reestablish your language and relationship and you'll see progress. Most importantly: start from scratch, at the very basics. Don't assume any 'knowledge' or you're leaning on that old relationship too much. Set the new path and stick to it. Your pup will adapt like any change in pack rank.

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Jackie
11/30/2013 06:04:22 am

Thank you Scott Bratcher for this answer as I am at a loss for my "grand" kids.

fiona link
3/8/2013 10:50:35 am

I use here all the time and it works I have prevented fights with unleashed dogs I also use a silent command with my arms stretch out wide and that works as well

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Donna
3/8/2013 11:41:18 pm

I have a female Jack Russell, I'm going to give this a try but ....I dunno!

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Laura
4/10/2013 04:34:16 am

I have Jacks too. and the thing about Jacks is they know, they understand , but do they want to do it???

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Donna
4/10/2013 06:41:14 am

Laura, well that's just it. She looks at me and knows what I want, starts to do what I want and then you see her thinking...nah. Then off she goes!

Jim Ripley
4/10/2013 06:33:39 am

I might also sugest recall and/or stop in hand signal format. Not as the primary, but as a secondary command option. It could happen that you have given your dog the recall command but for some reason you wish him to stop and stay for a short period. If it happens to be a noisy area he might not hear the platz command, but if he is running towards you he will be watching you, and a hand signal to stop or platz should work. Perhaps a mountain bike rider on a collision course with the dogs return path. Neither sees the other. Once the recall command is mastered you can add a hand signal with the verbal recall command. The same thing with the platz command. He will eventually work on either the verbal or non verbal command. Just something we did in Germany many years ago.

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Scott Bratcher link
4/17/2013 08:06:22 am

Read your post right after mine below. I agree with you about that secondary command, obviously.

I've not heard the 'platz' term before, though.

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Jim Ripley
4/17/2013 01:05:51 pm

I started training GSD's in Germany. I was in two different clubs over there and so I learned all my commands in German. Platz is the lay down command. Literal translation is place.

Retha L
12/1/2014 03:18:38 am

I incorporated hand signals with commands from the beginning. Later years, when their hearing was "less than good", we both appreciated the hand signals...no retraining necessary:) May I add another command that is wonderful for off leash..."Far enough". This is a command that the nose had taken them as far as I would let them go. It is, by far, the most used command as we rarely leash up, even for walks in the neighborhood:) As I usually have 2 or more dogs, leashes are a tangled mess in a short time:)

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Scott Bratcher link
4/17/2013 07:50:51 am

I live in town, so I've taught a phase two of the 'here' recall. The main recall has an accompanying hand gesture going from one hand held high to abruptly pointing to the ground at 'heel'. After getting this command I don't want my dog to obediently b-line it to me and get hit by a car, since he's mostly focused and bolting to my side. While coming he has my full attention and is looking for the 'stop', which is signed with two hands raised high in front of me with a loud call of stop, but pronounced more like a barked 'HOP' command to get through any sound of traffic. He goes into a laying-stay as I look for traffic to subside. Keeping hands high until ready, so that he stays in wait. Once clear of traffic I prep with a slow 'ready' verbal then drop my hands into a two handed come gesture and verbal 'CROSS' call. This saved my shepherd once and my akita also handles this command series expertly.

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Jim Ripley
4/17/2013 01:11:26 pm

I got off too soon. What you are doing is very similar to what I was talking about. We did basically the same thing and during training or
SCH testing it might be done several times during a single recall.

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Brandy link
5/1/2013 05:28:37 am

Is there a good video demo that you could recommend? I think I understand what you are saying but I have never done this and want to make sure I am doing the correct lesson the first time. I have a very smart shepherd that I rescued, I am trying to work with him as all I have is Pet Smart in the area for dog training. I am not sure that is what we need for him? I so wish I could find a trainer that specialized in GSD. Thank you for any advice.

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Jim Ripley
5/1/2013 06:02:22 am

I am actually a little out of touch since I have not had to activly train any dogs in quite some time. My hybrid wolf passed away a couple of years ago and my wife wants us to be free to travel so at least for the forseeable future no dog. Thus, no knowledge of any videos. Where are you located? If you're close to me I don't mind helping. If not, perhaps you can locate a trainer online in your area. If you do locate a local trainer I would sugest doing some research on him before you just jump in for your own peace of mind.

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Scott Bratcher link
5/5/2013 02:10:01 pm

Here's a demo video that I made today with Max, my Akita mix. My shepherd taught him all he knows. ;) It won't show the training, but will illustrate the result.

http://vimeo.com/65534302

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Jim Ripley
5/5/2013 06:08:32 pm

That's pretty much what I was talking about. It gives you the option to stop the dog in place after the recall was given and then resume the recall when it's safe.

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Atlantic Canada speaker link
5/16/2013 10:47:36 pm

Thanks for discussing the details. That is a amazing content you published. I found the post very useful as well as exciting. I will come returning to study some more.

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Sue
6/8/2013 05:39:34 am

Thanks for the advice. Great piece of video.

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Erica
7/18/2013 05:18:17 am

What is the earliest age you would recommend attempting to teach this? Does it matter?

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Jim Ripley
7/18/2013 08:21:26 am

I would say the earlier the better. Just like standard obedience. The idea is to make a game of it with rewards for getting it right. I would also say to always use one word commands. Hier(here or come), platz(place or lay down), fuss(heel), etc. We tend to talk to our dogs in sentances, but in actuality they key on single words. Sometimes when they have the head tilt I think they heard the sentance but didn't hear a key word. Thus the questioning look.

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Jacky
10/24/2014 12:24:55 pm

Touché Mr. Ripley, you are very knowledgeable, and if you trained GSD's you know what you are speaking about :)

Wendy Rogers
11/21/2013 01:14:21 am

My strongest recall with my GSD is when I whistle - can be heard a long way and there is no tone in it. It worked with my RIP GSD and works with my current GSD. I have hiked with both and they both chase(d) deer but will come off when I whistle. And as for stopping them I use the command "wait" or "stop".

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Deb
10/24/2014 08:37:01 pm

This is great, but slightly oversimplified. I have two Ridgebacks with quite lovely recalls, trained primarily with aforementioned methods. However, I have Shiba with stress/fear issues that simply overshadow anything you can do to train. He has went through all the same "stuff" as the Ridgies and all prior pups, but if the world isn't in its "perfect place" when that recall is needed, he isn't coming.

That being said, I do everything in my power to ensure he is never put in a place where he would be in danger if he didn't come. I just think people need to think about this when judging others and their dogs. It is the exception, yes, but it can happen. I do believe most dogs can be trained a solid recall, and some take more effort than others. But when there are mental/emotional issues at play, where NO reward could be big enough, sometimes that recall isn't possible and owners need to take other precautions to keep their pups safe.

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Jim Ripley
10/24/2014 11:18:41 pm

I try not to judge others, although it's possible it might seem that way sometimes. I work with rescue dogs now, and fully understand the myriad of problems some dogs can have. Fear is it's own stressor, and it's just not possible for us to know exactly what circumstances have caused the fears. Sometimes all we can do is give them unconditional love and try our best to make sure they are always safe and not put in a position where their fear will cause them harm.

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lorna link
12/1/2014 07:40:46 am

Have done the above with my dog, he has absolutely perfect recall 99% of the time sit and stay are also perfect. However there are sumtimes(normally when playing with a ball) when he wants to just carry on playing and will not come back. He will trot behind u, just out of reach (I don't chase) he will obey all commands as in sit or stay until u get close and then he will move just out of reach again. Any suggestions on working on this. Have tried pretty much everything I have found on this subject

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Jim Ripley
12/1/2014 08:30:05 am

Have never had exactly that sort of problem. When playing with the ball, is he supposed to get it, bring it back to you and sit in front of you until you take the ball from him? I'm assuming that is the game and what you are saying is he will not return to you with the ball. I have had a few instances when my dog decided it was time to play and would just decide to goof off. In those instances I have given the command to heel, and turn around as if to leave. My dog always came at that point and sat beside me. I would then talk a few steps to make sure he was back under control, reverse and go back to where we were. When I stopped and he sat down then we would go back to whatever it was that we had been working on. Don't know it that will help, but it always worked for me.

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Jocelyn Bright
12/1/2014 09:51:19 pm

what do you do if you live alone and there is just one of you

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Jim Ripley
12/2/2014 12:21:03 am

Jocelyn, not sure what your question is, so I have a few for you. What breed of dog are you talking about? How old is the dog? How long have you had the dog? Just as a general guide, most training can be done alone, and usually is. Bring me up to speed on your situation and maybe I can give you some meaningful guidelines.

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Muppet
12/2/2014 10:40:14 am

Mr. Ripley,

Thanks for your comments above. I just acquired a five month old Borzoi puppy after twelve years with high content wolf hybrids...and it's so much easier to work with dogs!! I generally work on his recall for a half hour to forty five minutes every day while we are walking off leash in a well fenced pasture--letting him start to sniff or look at something and then interrupting with the command, followed by extended praise. I have set him up to fail and self punish when I introduce new commands--for example, while there were still lots of young, sneaky calves in the adjoining cross fenced lot, ensuring that if he chose to ignore my call and zip after them he would get a serious shock from the electric fence seemed to really improve the effect of "no."

A question regarding your time with the wolf hybrid through...how has the difference in work/ clarity required by a cross affected your interactions with dogs?

Thanks :)

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Jim Ripley
12/2/2014 12:42:40 pm

Hi Muppet,
What a novel idea with the calves. Of course we are all not so lucky to have the perfect situation, but you definitely used it to your advantage. I don't think it has affected my relationships with dogs in the least. It did take some getting used to on my part with him until I had a better understanding of how they differ. Mine was also not a high content mix so he was really not that bad. It did take a little getting used to, and sometimes it was downright comical.

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